,,Has a modern nice sound to it besides being one of the most important elements in making a successful drape in fabric".            
Back in 2021 I already sensed the excitement of  what the ideas of self-sufficiency brought to textiles. Not only tearing down fabric and respinning but also through new methods where yarn is spun from a solvent of cellulose so called dry-jet wet spinning. Exciting times! Just now I was shopping autumn clothes and of 3 blouses 2 were actually made of Tencil and Lyocell. I had no idea innovations were already in fashion chain stores. Even when finding my favourite gey flannel trousers they were made of reworked wool. Really nice , thinner with an excellent drape.  I immeaditely thought social justice as the garments were on a favourable prize and looked so well ironed as in haute couture! The nice classical cut look in just in so much finer fabrics. Dirk all gone. Just the other day I was in shopping mall buying a Joey’s juice  where I couldn’t. take my eyes of the customer ps who had bought their autumn outfit of these new conceptions. They looked so fine, like sitting up in the crown of a tree. I think a big progressive step has been made in fashion which is truly admirable.

It seems like the loom and the knitting  machine have the same problem regarding yarn, I.e. how worked the yarn should be in order to be able to use it. I had bee warned that the Icelandic one ply yarn (eingirni) is not meant for knitting machines but I was not about to give up easily my only means to creative and fashionable outlet on the machine, not to mention the obvious part that it knits better and faster than me. My mother knitted beautifully but those were the fifties. It seems that the Icelandic wool has been spun exclusively for hand knits, the Icelandic market not being big enough to attend to the special needs of machine knitters  and weavers. Since working on of my later garments (a blue cardigan)  that was made of ,,kambyarn” (Combeyarn) and is more drapery one realises who each working stage of the yarn, washing, combing and spinning are important  and have the final impact on the drape of the knit or fabric. Consequently the most interesting thing now, is to regard fashion with regard to more variety of ,,natural” yarn like hemp, linen,and fibre experiments like Tencel and Lyocell.

The change  of this subject’s  name from weaving in girl’s schools , later household schools  into textiles in specialised art schools later textile finer arts gives hope for further  development  regarding yarn. The Hemp Association was formed just this year  with a promise of faster growing growing forest  than ever before in Iceland. Ever since I began working  in my studio (2012) I have been looking for raw, natural coloured ,,sailing” yarn, like Yuta for net effect in crocheted dresses and ending up wit the loom’s vertical band. My latest experiment, however was a dreas in so-called ,,mural” band. 

In he exhibition 100% wool in the Museum of Design and Applied Art 2020 a little wonder had happened where twill, tweed and herringbone fabrics were being shown, all made from Icelandic wool. I had always thought that the Icelandic wool wasn´t suitable for weaving ,,normal" fabric but it seemed that it just needed more spinning before being worked into fabric. The Icelandic wool is made of two layers where the upper layer called tog that can be spun ,,endlessly" or has the most art in it while the lower layer thel has be likened with finer kinds of wool. Separating these two layers has always been time consuming hand-craft where the appropriate machines to separate the layers are not existent here and making the wool repellent and maybe more suited for outdoor garments. The spinning part deduces those  rather dominant abilities and the end fabric has a rather nice shine to it. Spinning seems to be the key element for making a fabric.​

Spinning has a lot of history and  the painting by Rossetti on the pattern - page  shows a girl spinning with a spindle just as is the case with the garment on the picture to the left. The cardigan gets a nice fashionable, bouclé effect when the yarn in it is not spun too much with, of course, the knitting effect  while the skirt´s fabric worked in 1947, also hand spun, looks like a very normal plaided wool skirt. And everything in Icelandic wool! When homepage of various textile associations worldwide are visited a nice, friendly  façade comes up, with displays of various designs in textile that come out marvellously when the design´s  main ingredient the textile is regarded. There is still a lot to be said in that area especially with regard to seflsufficiency. I have tried kambgarn (combyarn), cashmere and angora and all these yarns work excellently with the knitting machine. I know the secret lies in developing yarn for the loom and knitting machines..